Archive for August, 2013


After conceiving of this dish it took a couple of attempts to finally achieve success. In my first effort some of the crepes were too thick and weren’t usable. Additionally, I only used pepperjack cheese which made the dish too dense. And finally, the veloute sauce didn’t turn out the way I had imagined.

So, tonight it was back to the drawing board for a second try that I’m happy to report turned out much better. I made sure that all of the crepes were thinner by using less batter for each. I mixed the pepperjack cheese with some ricotta to lighten the stuffing mixture. And, I tweaked the veloute sauce. For those who are unfamiliar with a veloute, it is similar to a béchamel with the exception that stock (traditionally meat stock), takes the place of milk. But my experiment involved a housemade vegetarian corn stock and puree. (See below for details).

Savory cornmeal crepes stuffed with pepperjack and ricotta cheeses baked and served napped with corn veloute sauce Chez Edouard
Stir fry of summer squash and onions

Vanilla ice cream with peaches and blackberries

Corn Veloute Chez Edouard
Cut the kernels from two fresh ears of corn and place in a large saucepan. Add the corn cobs (yes the cobs) and enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 30 minutes. Allow to cool. Remove the cobs and discard. Strain the remaining ingredients reserving the stock and the corn kernels. Place the corn in a blender with about half the stock and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine sieve and reserve the rather loose puree.

Meanwhile, melt two tablespoons of butter in a saucepan. Add two tablespoons of flour and whisk until the mixture is foamy. Take great care NOT to allow the flour to color. You want to create what is known as a blonde roux. Slowly add the reserved corn stock whisking over low heat until thickened to the consistency of heavy cream. Just before serving, stir in the loose puree and heat through. Add a pinch of salt but do NOT add pepper (which can overpower the delicate flavor of this sauce).

A Summer Favorite

My favorite pizza can really only be made in the summer when fresh, vine-ripened tomatoes are available. And that’s about all there is to it: sliced fresh tomatoes, caramelized onions, fresh mozzarella, and a garnish of chopped garlic and parmesan cheese.

Of particular note is the mozzarella. To the uninitiated, the term “fresh” is in reference to the type of cheese. Fresh mozzarella is altogether different from the firm blocks of the aged variety you find at the regular cheese counter that produces a stringy, often rubbery texture after melting. You may have to search for fresh mozzarella among the specialty cheeses and it is often sold in a ball shape. It will be noticeably softer (in fact squeezable), and has a wonderfully creamy texture when melted.

The order of the toppings as you place them on the dough is also important because sliced fresh tomatoes can be a bit juicy. To avoid a soggy crust, start with the mozzarella and onions, then add the tomatoes and garnishes. A chiffonade of basil can also be strewn about if desired, and a pinch of red pepper flakes sprinkled over adds a bit of kick.

I never want anything else when I have pizza…not even a salad. But later in the evening I do indulge in something sweet.

Summer pizza Chez Edouard

Peach pound cake with whipped cream

%d bloggers like this: